Field Notes

Occasional writing on long walks, old maps and slow travel.

The steppe in late September

By the end of September the grass turns the colour of weak tea and the wind never quite stops. Distances lie here: a ridge that looks an hour away takes a whole afternoon.

Reading a 1910 survey sheet

Old survey sheets mark wells, winter camps and fords that no longer exist. Lining them up against a modern map is slow work, but every now and then a forgotten track lines up exactly.

On packing light

Three seasons of trial and error came down to one rule: if it has not been used for two trips in a row, it stays at home.